Oraibi: A Culinary Journey Through Indigenous Flavors

On a crisp December evening, the normally austere SE Division pop-up space Kolectivo was transformed into a vibrant homage to Indigenous culinary traditions. The air was filled with the earthy aroma of squash and mushrooms, a dish that showcased umber brown hen of the woods and yellowfoot winter chanterelles nestled among dandelion greens and a rich chile sauce. Bright pops of orange squash and the crunch of toasted sunflower seeds added texture, creating a plate that tasted like the very essence of the earth—mossy and sweet.

As guests settled around the table, they sipped on assorted teas infused with blueberry and wild rose, lemon balm and hawthorn berry, or coolers that were tart with huckleberry and mint. The walls of Kolectivo, often bare and white, were adorned with striking art: portraits of masked Hopi sun warriors, illustrations of maize, and photos of Indigenous people on horseback. A small library of Indigenous literature, including The New Native Cookbook, The Book of Hopi, and the bilingual I Hope/Nipakosêyimon in English and Plains Cree, invited guests to reflect on the richness of Indigenous culture as they dined.

A Vision for Indigenous Cuisine

This is Oraibi, the Indigenous dinner series launched by chef Alexa Numkena-Anderson. As an enrolled member of the Hopi tribe with familial ties to the Cree, Yakama, and Skokomish peoples, Numkena-Anderson is revolutionizing Portland’s dining landscape with a tasting menu that celebrates First Foods—those consumed by Indigenous peoples before European contact. With her husband and business partner, Nick Numkena-Anderson, she aims to create a space that honors these traditional ingredients, using only what is native to Turtle Island, the Indigenous name for North and Central America.

While the couple previously gained recognition with their pop-up Javelina, known for its fry bread tacos and Sonoran hot dogs, they felt a compelling need to shift their focus. Javelina offered what they termed “Powwow fare,” a nod to Native American comfort food. However, Numkena-Anderson began to grapple with the implications of serving postcolonial ingredients such as dairy and refined sugars, particularly given the pervasive health issues among Indigenous communities. With diabetes rates soaring—over 17 percent among those living on reservations compared to 11 percent nationwide—she felt an ethical responsibility to embrace more traditional, nutrient-rich foods.

From Fry Bread to First Foods

At a January pop-up at Han Oak, Numkena-Anderson made the pivotal decision to pivot away from the fry bread tacos that had defined Javelina. “I wasn’t feeling 100 percent good about the food I was putting back into the Native community,” she shared. “I had always wanted to dive more into Indigenous foods or First Foods.” The transition posed challenges, particularly in cooking without refined sugars or gluten, but the response was overwhelmingly positive, validating her direction.

In launching Oraibi, named after the Hopi village in Arizona—one of the longest continually inhabited towns in the United States—Numkena-Anderson introduced a $100 tasting menu that focuses on traditional ingredients such as elk, huckleberries, squash, bison, and Mayan red beans. The menu is structured around a single seating each night, allowing for an intimate dining experience where each course is a journey through Indigenous history and culture.

Crafting a Unique Culinary Experience

For the majority of her cooking, Numkena-Anderson doesn’t rely on traditional recipes; often, there are none to reference. “A lot of cultures have a goulash or a paella…a certain dish that represents their culture,” she explains. “Native Americans don’t really have that just because they spent so much time just surviving and trying to get to the next day.” Instead, she draws inspiration from local ingredients, combining elements from the Pacific Northwest and Southwest, while also reflecting on her personal history, which includes experiences in restaurants like Imperial and Sammich, as well as meals shared with her Mexican grandmother.

During the courses at Oraibi, both Alexa and Nick take turns discussing each dish, articulating the personal and cultural significance behind them. One standout dish is the pop-up’s squash boat, which has evolved from a version filled with chorizo and cotija cheese at Javelina to a delightful creation featuring Sonoran wheat berries and Mayan red beans—ingredients that have been part of Indigenous diets for centuries. Rather than utilizing meats such as pork and beef, Numkena-Anderson focuses on fauna traditionally found in the region long before colonization—a blue corn sope topped with braised rabbit, cacao butter, and a mild verde sauce exemplifies this philosophy.

Additional dishes highlight the regional diversity of Indigenous cuisine. Elk marinated in elderberry finds its way into a comforting hominy soup, while bison skewers are paired with sunchokes and a sweet huckleberry sauce. Dessert is a refreshing cranberry sorbet, sweetened with maple and served alongside a sunflower seed cookie, offering a delightful conclusion to a meal steeped in tradition.

A Thoughtful Beverage Pairing

Nick Numkena-Anderson curates the beverage offerings for Oraibi, emphasizing nonalcoholic options like Indigenous teas and coffees that complement the meal. While Javelina’s pop-ups typically featured cocktails, Oraibi shifts focus to beverages that enhance the dining experience without alcohol. However, a selection of local beers and pinot noir from Greywing Cellars, one of the first Willamette Valley wineries with an Indigenous winemaker, offers guests a taste of the local terroir.

Looking Ahead: The Future of Oraibi

The Oraibi pop-up is set to run through February, with the Numkena-Andersons actively fundraising on Honeycomb Credit to establish their own brick-and-mortar restaurant—the first explicitly Indigenous restaurant in Portland. Despite the chef’s commitment to precolonial cuisine at Oraibi, they plan to keep Javelina operational as a lunch service for the upcoming establishment, transitioning it into a prix fixe dinner service in the evenings. “They aren’t ready to completely abandon the fry bread, after all,” as Numkena-Anderson aptly puts it.

Conclusion

Oraibi is more than just a dining experience; it is a celebration of Indigenous identity, history, and culture through food. By focusing on First Foods and precolonial ingredients, chef Alexa Numkena-Anderson is not only reshaping Portland’s culinary scene but also contributing to the broader conversation about food sovereignty and health within Indigenous communities. As the couple works toward establishing a permanent location for their restaurant, they invite the community to join them on this journey of rediscovery and appreciation for the rich culinary heritage of Native American peoples.